Cerise went to #Paris, stayed in #Montmarte, went to #chateau of #Chantilly and ate in famous #kitchen!

View from our 6th floor Paris apartment in Montmarte!
A sunny day in October!

Known as the largest, best preserved of the grand chateaux in France, Chantilly is a gorgeous edifice in the Paris suburbs. To get there, as we did, by RER train, is quick and easy. We had a NAVIGO card, which I recommend you buy and so our trip was quick and affordable. It was especially so because we stayed in Montmarte, and here is our view from our apartment.

Chantilly, originally built by the Montmorency family, was owned by the great rival of Louis XIV, the Grande Conde. This nobleman led a famous battle which he won resoundingly, and thus became a powerful man in his own right. He rebelled against the famed Louis, but lost his hegemony. I leave it to you to investigate further, should you desire. My attempt here is to give you highlights, not necessarily the in depth history of the chateau.

One entrance through which you access the
kitchen, now a restaurant that serves marvelous food!

Devolving from the Montmorency family, Chantilly went to the Grande Conde and then after the French Revolution and Napoleon, on to the Bourbons once again. The last owner was the nephew of the last Bourbon king to rule France, known as the Duke D'Aumale. It is his house and furnishings which are largely on display at this marvelous estate.

Known for the stables and horse breeding, the stud is a well known one in France and today it is still used for races and such. The arena is huge and on the Sunday we visited, they were hosting a competition there beyond the elaborate gates.

Along the moat, the house seems to float.

Inside the main house, the grandeur tends to overwhelm with huge circular marble staircases, a superlative art collection including portraits of each of the Bourbon kings and the original of the 3 Graces.

If you go, do plan enough time to dine in the kitchen which is now a fabulous restaurant. Yes, they serve Chantilly cream on their puffs for dessert. But the rest of the menu is scrumptious, too. If you have seen the movie VALMONT about the famous French chef who served a famous house party where Louis XIV was guest, you will sit in the same room as he...and dine well!

The main entrance to the chateau. 

Entrance to the stables. Inside is a show arena.

Rococco decor on the front gates of the stables.

Chairs in the Duke's office, not exactly conducive to conversation!

The music room with the duchess's harp.

A bust of the Grande Conde.

The family chapel in the chateau. Note the French canopy of blue and gold as well as
the black marble altar pieces. Inside these are buried the hearts of the dukes who lived here.
Yes, this was a tradition until the last duke to give his heart after death in the 1860s.

I leave you with a picture that was the very devil to take!
The ornate ceiling of the family chapel with its shields, carvings of gold and blue amid the light
from fabulous stained glass windows.

Cerise went to #Paris, came home w. tales of #Josephine's #Malmaison (and ate best #frites ever!) Part 3

My pix of entrance to Malmaison, taken a few weeks ago!

Bet you didn't know that Malmaison means Bad House. Who named it that? Not Josephine Bonaparte. Not Napoleon, either.

The Vikings!

Yes. They used to raid and hunt in the forests around town of Malmaison-Rueil and the French named the area the Bad House or Bad Area because no one should be caught there.

That, my friends, is one tidbit I learned on my recent 2 week trip to France. On the day hubby and I took the RER to Rueil, the sun was gloriously shining and the temperature hovered in the mid-60s. We walked from the train station, turned down an offer of a cabbie to drive us to Josephine's house and hoofed it toward the south east part of the town. Two miles later, we looked around and said, as we often did, we're hungry. We decided on a FAB.U.LOUS cafe in the center of town and ordered two champagnes (cuz tourists get thirsty) and our luncheon.  Here, (yes, I want you to drool), I had a marvelous French onion soup and a hamburger with frites.

A pillar in the entry.

Onward!

The house is in pristine condition, saved by the French at the behest of Josephine herself. When she died in 1814, she bequeathed the house and all its contents to her son, Eugene who was to keep it in trust for the State of France. For the most part, his descendants were able to do that and the result is this truly enjoyable house.

Yes, as hubby agreed, it is a home. Comfortable and colorful and rich, the house is a marvelous representation of Josephine's taste. I have pictures galore and will share the best.

Here you see detail from a pillar in the entryway. When Josephine bought the house, as ever, she was in need of funds. She wanted to make the house look grand, especially because Napoleon had just waged his Egyptian Campaign. She wished to welcome him with symbols of that and so when she had the entryway reconstructed for his return, she asked for marble pillars. But she had not the money for marble. The pillars are therefore stucco and painted to appear as if they are marble. This decoration recalls the Egyptian influence atop the faux marble!

Here is the glory of Josephine's Music Room where she entertained and had others do so as well! More pictures
of this in Part 2 of her house.

Throughout the house, color and textures are vibrant. Most of the furniture is original to the house or was brought from other homes Josephine shared with Napoleon. The effect is dramatic and comforting. Also throughout are representations of Napoleon in various forms. In sculpture and painting, this house where he lived with Josephine from approximately 1798 until he became emperor is filled with his presence.

A marble bust of Napoleon in a side stairway!

Oil by David of Napoleon Crossing the Alps in a room with many of his swords and uniforms.

Oil of Napoleon celebrating the Italian Campaign.

Josephine's gardens, most famous for her roses, were in bloom when we visited. Though it was mid-October, the gardeners had done their work and we were treated to glorious blooms.

All of these pictures are mine, FYI, so if you take any to use, please credit me as Cerise DeLand.
Thank you and return for more of the joy of Josephine's house in a few days!